How NOT to Dress During Pregnancy...

I am, as has previously been mentioned, expecting a baby boy in October. That means I have about 9 weeks to go before our little one makes his debut. I'm at a rather awkward time in the pregnancy; even my maternity clothes are starting to feel a little snug...it's a dilemma. I haven't figured out yet how to resolve this problem, since I can't really go buy a whole new wardrobe of maternity clothes that I'll only wear for 9 weeks, but I can tell you that I've discovered what NOT to do and as a public service, I am sharing my discovery with you. Are you ready? Here goes...do not, under any circumstances, wear a large, lavender sweatshirt whilst expecting. Trust me on this one. You really, really do not want to look like a giant blueberry in the only picture you have from your 5th Anniversary...

Contrary to what you may think I am not:

A. Giving birth to the Jolly Green Giant

B. Gestating septuplets

C. 10.5 months pregnant

I simply discovered (the hard way) how NOT to dress while pregnant...learn from my mistakes; that's the only good that can come from this...

P.S. It was really windy and cold on that train...other than that, I have no excuse for looking like that...none at all.

P.P.S. That's a shadow; I'm not soaking wet from the waist down. Promise.

P.P.P.S. I think that is, quite possibly, the worst picture ever taken of me. And I've chosen to share it with you, gentle readers. I feel closer to you already.

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Book Review-- The No-Cry Separation Anxiety Solution

by Elizabeth Pantley.

When Elizabeth Pantley's "people" invited me to review her new book, The No-Cry Separation Anxiety Solution I thought, "AWESOME!' I absolutely recommend her books to clients whenever I get the chance. Specifically, her sleep book for toddlers and preschoolers saved Henry and my sanity. I was really certain her new book about separation anxiety would deliver.

And it did!

The book covers ages 6 months to 6 years. I felt like I was lucky to get the WHOLE spectrum since all my children fall within these age ranges and each has dealt with varying degrees of separation issues.

Elizabeth clears points out that it is HEALTHY and NORMAL for our babies and children to want to be with us. It is GOOD. It is ANNOYING sometimes, but it is right. So, she makes the important point that there is NO reason to look for reasons to force our children into separation situations just so they "get used to it." When we need and want to be away from our children, though, the tips in the book are definitely worth while.

The book is broken down by age, and also by specific separation issues. So, if your toddler is suffering at day care, then BAM, there's a section for that. It also discusses stranger anxiety and how to handle it.

The main point that I think The No-Cry Separation Anxiety Solution makes is that when separation is necessary, regardless of the length of time, if your child is suffering, then you need to help soothe it as best you can. However, just simply putting a bandaid on the wound is NOT the answer. Soothing, yes, but proactive as well. Hence why the "Magic Bracelet" idea is so fantastic. This plan is for children preschool age and older and is a special bracelet (one comes with the book) that your child only wears when they are away. It supplies children with the love of their parents when they are separated. It helps them feel brave and capable. What a great idea. It empowers your child as well as comforts them.

AWESOME!

I would definitely recommend this book for anyone who's baby cries when they get put down, or for anyone who's child is reluctant for any reason to be away. It was a great, quick read.

Pros:
Easy to read
Lots of ideas so you can apply what works and disregard what doesn't
Works within a more "gentle" mindset.
Covers a large age range

Cons:
Um, the only issue I had is that I am a hormonal pregnant woman. So, reading this book, and hearing the personal stories of little children clinging to parents' knees made me cry, this was merely because I am an idiot.

Go get it. It is a wonderful resource for parents of very young children.

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Going Paperless--CLOTH DIAPER Editon

There are a lot of links. CLICK ON THEM!!

Wait! Don't click the "x" and close this window. I'm sorry! I'm SORRY! I know, it's like totally crunchy, out-there, weird, wackado-ish. BUT! It can also save you BUTT-LOADS of money.

BUTT-LOADS!

I'm not joking.

On average, disposable diapers cost from birth-toilet training about $2500*.

Even with factoring in laundry detergent and water to wash, it's a FRACTION. A FRACTION, I say. At the VERY cheapest version, it's like $400. At the fanciest, it's around $1400. It will SAVE YOU MONEY!

And who in the world doesn't want to save money? HELL-O!

So, peruse that there website I linked and see for yourself.

I will NOT be discussing all the different types of cloth diapers. There are All-in-ones, pocket diapers, chinese prefolds, flats, etc etc etc. Go HERE and see for yourself.

Now, a bit of history for you (aren't you SO excited??):

I've been cloth diapering for four years, ever since I got downsized at my job. We went from barely making it with my 40 hours a week to really really really not making it on 20. So, I knew what i had to do. I went CHEAP. Gerber cloth diapers from Wal-mart, pins and plastic pants. My entire investment was 24 dollars. Less than one large box of disposables.

Over the years, I have increased my investment to wonder wrap covers, chinese prefolds and snappi closures.  (Each of those is a link, CLICK ON IT!).

Now, I am on baby #3 of cloth diapering, and I have it down to an art.

HOW TO CLOTH DIAPER:

Regardless of the type of diaper you select, you pretty much do it the same. You diaper baby, you change every two or so hours. If it's poopy and solid, you shake it off, if it's just wet, chuck it in the diaper pail. It's runny poopy, that's your own call. You can swish in the toilet and plop in the pail or just chuck it in the pail.

SIDENOTE: Did you know you're supposed to shake and flush poop even with disposable diapers? Don't believe me? Go check your packaging. It's in small letters, but it's there.

WAIT! Diaper pail? EW! The very name makes you creepy right?

Relax. It's just a bucket with a tight-fitting lid, large enough to hold two days worth of dirty diapers and covers. This is one is VERY cheap. It's the one I have, it's perfectly workable. I've used the same one for the entire time.

If you WANT you can use a pail liner. You don't have to. Either way, you DO NOT put any sort of cleaner, water or solution in the pail. That's just plain gross. EW.

Anyway, so you dump the contents of the pail into the washer, run a cold rinse cycle, then a HOT wash cycle with detergent (how ever much is recommended by your diaper brand, it's usually a VERY SMALL AMOUNT.) If you're worried about the smell, you can put 1/4 cup of vinegar in it as well.

NO BLEACH.
NO STAIN SPRAY.
NO FABRIC SOFTENER.

These destroy your diapers.

Line-dry if you can. It bleaches out any stains. If they are crunchy after, throw them in the dryer for like 10 minutes.

If line-drying isn't an option, just pop them in the dryer for a cycle. NO DRYER SHEET.

And bam, you've got clean cloth diapers.
****

Now, the decision to cloth diaper does not have to be an all-or-nothing choice. Lots of people just cloth diaper at home. Or during the day. Lots of people use day cares that won't allow cloth diapers, but you can do it in the evenings and weekends if you want. You do what works. But any amount of cloth diapering is going to save you money.

Let's talk about the environment. There is some argument to suggest that potty waste dirties so much water with flushing poop, AND washing that it is not actually better for the environment than disposable diapers. This is poo-poo. Water is restored, cleaned and renewed all the time.

Disposables end up in landfills.

From Wired.com:
Diapers made up 3.4 million tons of waste, or 2.1 percent of U.S. garbage, in landfills in 1998 -- the last year this information was collected, according to the Environmental Protection Agency. Diapers in landfills in underdeveloped countries are especially problematic because they often aren't properly disposed, and excrement leaks into the local water supply.Read More http://www.wired.com/science/discoveries/news/2004/04/63182#ixzz0jzMT1VKS


Now, look, I get that cloth diapering isn't for everyone. I GET IT. I have a good friend who is a great mom and cloth diapering is NOT her thing. That's COOL. I truly understand that lifestyles differ, finances are different, everyone's "ew" factor is different. But if you have ever considered it, if you think, "Yeah, that's not so bad," then it might be worth trying. Give it a whirl. Most people are nervous at first, and most people end up loving it. It's very easy. It's not leaky or dirty. It's just a totally viable option for people looking to simpllfy their budgets and their lives. 2-3 extra loads of laundry a week, that's it.

There is an initial investment. How much that is is YOUR choice. But once you pay out, that's it. ONCE. You may to buy a new cover or diaper on occasion, especially if you diaper multiple children, but it's a few dollars here and there.

(We'll cover wipes another day, but there ARE cloth wipes!)


Don't stress if you simply can not fathom cloth diapering. But do TRY and consider it, if you're in that place in your life. It's good for baby, it's good for your budget and it's great for the environment. It's a really good all-around thing to do. It's BEAUTIFUL!

If not, we can still be friends. HONEST.

*photo from hatice2.bloguez.com

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The Baby Quilt: Time to Finish it!

You are nearly there! Just a couple more things to do, and they are super easy!

Step 10: Trim the back fabric to be about 1 inch wider than the quilt top on all sides. You can do this with your rotary cutter and ruler. Make sure this is very straight (like when you squared the edges of your fabric)

Triming the backing fabric to approx. 1 in. larger than the quilt top

Step 11: Cut 4 strips of fabric 2.5 inches wide from the printed flannel. Sew these strips together to form one long piece. Place this strip right side down on the quilt top, lining the edges up (line up the quilt top edge, not the quilt backing edge). I like to start in the middle of one side. I leave about 4 inches of fabric as a bit of a 'tail' at the end, before I start sewing (this gives me fabric to work with to join the 2 ends as I make my way around the quilt). Sew this with a .5 inch seam.

Sewing the binding strip to the edge of the quilt top

Step 12: When you get to a corner, fold the strip back onto itself like this:

Strip folded onto itself to form a corner

Step 13: When you have sewn the binding strip all the way around the quilt top it's time to bind it! Flip the biding strip right side up.

Binding stip flipped right side up

Step 14: Fold the binding strip in half, with the cut edge towards the back of the quilt. Then fold in onto itself one more time. Like this:

Binding folded once towards the back                                                             Binding folded onto itself one more time

Step 15:  After you've folded a small section (see above) take your threaded needle (with a small length of thread and a knot at the bottom) and start a stich from behind the folded binding. Make sure you catch the backing fabric and bring the needle up through the fold of the binding like this:

Hand stitching the binding to the backing.

Keep stitching and folding all the way around the edges of the quilt. When you are finished the binding should lay flat on the front and back.

Congratulations! You've finished a quilt! I told you could do it!

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How to Make a Baby Quilt: Framing and Tying

Alrighty, so by now you should have your squares sewn into a quilt top. Yay for you! Next we are going to frame the top, like a picture and put the final touches on the quilt. Ready?

Step 6:  Frame the quilt top.
*Using the lightweight fleece cut 4 3 inch strips. Make sure the strips are at least 6 inches  longer than the longest side. You'll trim them later to make them even. You can measure your top and then measure and cut the length of the strips (make sure they are at least 6 inches longer than the  longest sides) or you can do what I do and just eyeball it. Either way works.
* Sew a strip to each of the short sides of the quilt. Place the strip right side down on the quilt top and then sew with a 1/4inch seam, just like you used for the squares.
*Trim the ends of these strips to be even with the quilt top.
* Sew the last 2 strips to each of the long sides. This is why the strips needed to be a bit longer. The extra length will enable the long side strips to line up with the framing strips on the top and the bottom. When you're all done sqaure up the sides. It should look like this:

 Image: Strips on each side; top trimmed and squared

Step 7: Prepare the backing fabric for the quilt/Baste the quilt top to the back
*On a table or  hard floor lay out the solid baby fleece and smooth it flat. You may want to use masking tape to hold the fabric smooth and flat to the table/floor. You don't need to square this fabric because you are going to be trimming it to fit the top.
* Lay the top, right side up, on top of the back fabric and smooth the top. You'll want to try to center the top on the backing fabric, but it doesn't have to be perfect. Leave at least a couple inches on all sides. Don't forget: make sure there are NO wrinkles or bubbles in the back or top.
* Baste the top to the back. Basting is when you use large stiches or pins to hold the layers of the quilt together while you join them permanently with yarn ties or quilting stitches. Basting is really important because it prevents the front and back from slipping and wrinkling while you finish everything up.
           -If you choose to stitch the top to the bottom you can make the stitches 4-6 inches long and you don't need to secure them with knots. Stitch in a grid, putting in lines of stitches about 3-4 inches apart horizontally and vertically.
           -If you use safety pins (you can buy them by the hundreds at craft stores) pin all over the top 3-4 inches apart. I use safety pins, but either way works equally well.

Quilt top pin basted to the back

NOTE: You have noticed that this quilt doesn't have any batting (the fluffy white stuff that is usually in between the quilt top and the quilt back). You are correct, it does not. I chose not to put batting in this quilt because the layers of fleece and flannel make it soft and warm. I live on the surface of the sun and adding backing would make it too warm. If you livei n colder climates, you can add a layer of batting between the quilt top and the backing. Everything else remains the same.

Step 8: Tie the quilt.

Using a large, sharp yarn needle and the coordinating yarn, tie small knots at the corners of the squares (diagonally connecting 2 squares). I doubled up the yarn (pulled it through the eye of the needle until I had two long lengths of yarn) and I decided to put my knots at the corners of the flannel squares. You can cut the yarn after each knot or go fronm one knot to the next without cutting the yarn; either way works just fine!

Image: Knots tied at the flannel corners. Connected knots at the top

Continue tying knots all over the top of your quilt, in the pattern you have chosen. 

Congratulations! You are nearly finished. Next week, we'll tackle the binding and finishing touches in our last 2 installments of the series.

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How To Make A Baby Quilt: Getting Started

Quilting is super fun, super useful and, despite what you may think, super easy. Really! Now, I know what you are thinking. You are thinking, "Ha! Erin, you are crazy. I've seen quilts and while they are lovely, I could never, ever do that. I am not crafty or a good seamstress or talented or anything! I cannot do that." Well, Ms. Negative Pants, you can stop that thought right there. Say it with me: Anyone can make a quilt.

All together now: ANYONE CAN MAKE A QUILT! And, I'm going to show you how. This is the first of a 4-Part series on how to make a small, baby quilt. All you need to know how to do is cut and sew a (relatively) straight line. Trust me: a patient kindergartener could do this and so can you!

To start, we need to establish some ground rules for our quilt making adventure. Don't freak out! There are only 3 rules.

1. Make something you like. Not something you saw in a magazine. Not something you saw at a craft store. Make something you like.

2.Make an imperfect quilt. Perfection is not our goal. Little imperfections make a quilt special. No quilt, not even the one in a magazine, craftstore or at the American Quilt Show, is perfect. Yours won't be either and that's okay. In fact, your quilt must be imperfect. It's a rule.

3. Figure out what works for you and do it. There is always someone who will try to tell you the "right" way to do something; the "right" way to choose fabrics, the "right" tools to use etc.... These can be great tips but only if they work for you. If not, do it your way. That includes the steps shown here. If something else works better for you or you want to try things "your way" go for it! When in doubt, remember rule #1. You are making something for you, not for anyone else, so do what works for you.

Alrighty-rules are over. Now, lets get to the fun part!

NOTE: You should expect to spend 3-5 hours total on this project. It took me about 3 from start to finish (including time to take pictures) but if you are brand new to quilting it may take longer. Don't fret! Get started now! Don't wait until you have "time"! You don't have to finish everything in one sitting. In fact, I would recommend doing one step at a time and taking some breaks in between to admire your progress and to get ready and excited about the next steps. 


Step 1: Gather your supplies. For this quilt you will need:

*1.5 yards solid baby flannel for the backing
*.75 yards coordinating light weight fleece
*.75 yards coordinating baby flannel print
*Coordinating baby soft yard for tying
*Spool of white thread
*Rotary Cutter/Self healing mat
*Quilting Ruler

****A note about cutting and measuring tools: I recommend getting a sturdy rotary cutter, self-healing mat and a clear 24 in. X 6 in. quilting ruler. If you don't want to buy these things until you are sure you are going to keep quilting, scissors and a regular ruler will work just fine. You'll just need to be super careful about cutting around your templates. If you want to try the rotary cutting methods shown here, I recommend going to JoAnne Fabric and purchasing one of the Quilting Starter Kits during a sale; you'll be able to get all of these tools in one kit and on sale they are usually 40-50% off.****

Image: The supplies

Step 2: Square the fabric. You want to make the fabric "square"; not in shape but you want the edges to be 90 degrees to each other and fabric is never square when you get it from the fabric store. This is really, really important. Do not skip this step, even if it seems silly or you feel like you are wasting fabric. There are lots of ways to do this. The way I square the fabric is:

         *Fold it in half width-wise (so its fat, not long and skinny) and then I cut the long, open side completely straight using my quilting ruler.This usually requires cutting off about an inch to an inch and a half of fabric. With one side completely straight, you can square up the other two sides.

              Image: Preparing to trim the long side of the fabric

    * Align the top (short) end of your ruler with the straight edge about 1 inch from one of the short ends of the fabric and then use the rotary cutter to trim that side. Don't move the ruler! Look at the corner of the

fabric. The fabric is "square" if the 90 degree angle of the ruler matches the fabric exactly.

    * Repeat on the other short side.

Step 3: Cut your squares. For this quilt, you are going to use the light-weight fleece and baby print to make squares that you will alternate in rows and columns. You will need 21, 3.5 inch squares of each fabric.

        * Using a ruler or your computer, draw a  3.5 inch square on paper and cut it out, very carefully. Use this template to guide your cutting. If you have a clear quilting ruler you can tape this template to the ruler to act as your measuringcutting guide.

Image: The template taped to the clear quilting ruler. Lined up to prepare to "square" the selvage edge

* Line the bottom right corner of the square template with the bottom right corner of your (squared!) fabric and use your scissors or rotary cutter to cut a 3.5 inch wide strip. Then, continuing to use your square template as a guide, cut the strip into squares.

Image: The template aligned with the strip, prepared for cutting the strip into squares.

        You can also stack (very carefully) multiple strips together to make cutting the squares

more efficient.

Step 4: Once you have cut your 21 squares from both the lightweight fleece and the printed flannel, layout your rows on a table or floor to find the best arrangement/pattern. You are going to sew the squares together by column or row, so seeing the layout before you begin is a helpful way to visualize the final product.

Step 5: Begin sewing your squares together!

        *Starting with the top row, lay 2 squares (1 fleece, 1 printed flannel) right sides together and sew a 1/4 inch seam. You can measure this seam by marking 1/4 inch on your sewing machine with a piece of tape or you can align the edge of your fabric with a 1/4 inch marking on the machine (if your machine has this measurement). Continue sewing pairs of 2 squares together.

 Image: Pairs of squares sewn together

Note: If you sew a seam that isn't perfectly straight, don't worry. You can always pull it out and sew it again. Only do this if the seam is really, really uneven like this:     

 I'm not sure what the heck happened here, but clearly this seam is no bueno. Carefully pull it out and try again.

* Once all of your squares are sewn into groups of 2, begin sewing them into rows, again using a 1/4 inch seam. You want 6 squares (3 pairs) for each row. You'll make 7 rows. Alternate which type of fabric starts each row; 1 row beginning with flannel, the next with fleece etc...

Image: Rows of squares; alternating fleece and flannel squares in each row

Step 6: Sew your rows together. Lay one row on top of another, right sides together (try to line up the seams as much as is possible) and sew one continuous seam to join the two rows. Add another row at the bottom and repeat.  As you sew the rows together, try to push the seams open or to one side (either way is fine).

Image: The rows all sewn together to make one large rectangle.

YAY! Your quilt top is nearly complete! Good for you! We'll finish the quilt tomorrow! Good work. :-)

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